If you haven't heard, about a year ago teens were eating laundry detergent (despite being old enough to know better) to take part in the Tide Pod Challenge, a viral social media stunt in which you put a coated capsule of laundry detergent, which resembles a gummy candy, in your mouth and record your reaction as the pod dissolves. Please don't do it :)
In the first 15 days of 2018, there were 39 reported cases of intentional Tide Pod ingestion among 13 to 19 year olds, The American Association of Poison Control Centers reported last week.
Now How To Clean on Carpet
Laundry detergent is one of the most common household items found within the home. If you spill detergent on carpet, you could spend hours trying to remove it because the liquid, which is very thick, gets deep into carpet fibers.
Use really hot water and vinegar
Make sure the water is at its highest temperature to effectively remove the laundry detergent from your carpet. Fill a clean spray bottle with the hot water.
Spray the entire affected area of carpet
Cover the area that has the laundry detergent embedded in it with the hot water. Run your hand over the carpet until it feels sudsy like a sponge.
Then use a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to clean up excess water from the carpet. After you have vacuumed the excess water, the carpet fibers will still be wet.
Allow the carpet to sit for a few minutes
This will allow the laundry detergent to separate from the fibers. Repeat the process with your high-powered vacuum cleaner until you have gotten most of laundry detergent out of the carpet. Use a towel to dab the carpet until the rest of the laundry detergent comes up.
Professional carpet cleaning companies have specialized equipment to remove the detergent and leave your carpet fresh. Carpet cleaning companies use specific steam cleaners and chemicals to break down the detergent components. You can even contact a carpet company after you have tried to remove the detergent yourself. Call us if you have any questions 714-600-1467 or 844-4-DirtBuster.
1. Bleach & Ammonia
You should never mix cleaning products. Period. But you should especially never work with an ammonia-based and a bleach-based cleaner at the same time. This is most likely to occur in a bathroom or kitchen, so carefully check labels before getting to work. When vapors from ammonia and bleach mix together, they form a toxic gas that is extremely dangerous. If you discover that you, or someone in your home, has been exposed to these fumes, leave the area immediately and call 911.
Why: Inhaling the vapors could cause severe respiratory damage and burn your throat.
The worst that could happen: If ammonia is present in excess, toxic and potentially explosive liquid hydrazine may be formed.
2. bleach & Vinegar
My grandmother loves bleach and I love vinegar. While the combination does create a good disinfectant, these two common agents should never be used at the same time, no way no how.
Why: Adding any weak acid to bleach will release toxic chlorine and chloramine vapors.
The worst that could happen: You can get a nasty chemical burn, especially of your eyes and lungs. Ouch.
3.Bleach & rubbing Alcohol
Why: Bleach contains sodium hypochlorite, which reacts with ethanol/ isopropyl alcohol to produce chloroform, hydrochloric acid, and other compounds, such as chloroacetone or dichloroacetone.
The worst that could happen: You could damage your nervous system, eyes, lungs, skin, liver, and kidneys. Trust me, no stain is worth this boo boo. Call 911 immediately if you come in contact with this.
4. Vinegar & hydro-Peroxide
These two ingredients are commonly touted as natural cleaning methods, but combining the two in the same container could result in a corrosive acid.
Why: You can use them on the same surface separately while cleaning, but don't mix them in the same container. You'll create paracetic acid which, despite being an effective sanitizer, is potentially corrosive and irritating.
The worst that could happen: The health risks aren't well-known, but in high enough concentrations, paracetic acid "is very irritating to the skin, eyes, nose, throat, and lungs, with the potential for causing permanent scarring of the skin, cornea, and throat."
Replacing the filter(s) in your hvac regularly keeps your appliances working properly and your energy bills on the low low. I would say that the majority of people forget to do this. 9 out of 10. It could potentially contribute to other maintenance issues down the line. Read on to find out the best rate at which to change your air filter!
How to Tell When Your HVAC Air Filter Needs Changing
If your filter shows only a subtle layer of dirt under which the filter's material is still visible, your filter is in fine working order. Once it gets much beyond that point, it's ready to be changed out. If there's a visible coating of dirt covering most of your filter's surface that is adequately thick to obscure the filter material itself, that's a sign that your filter has been in your HVAC system far too long.
Do you have pets?
Cats and dogs shed and have odors that can build up in your space, making it necessary to change your filter every 2 months. Generally, cats and dogs shed most when winter turns to spring and summer turns to fall, which are key times to replace your filter.
Do you have young children?
Superior indoor air quality is especially important with kids around. Keep your home clean and air quality under control by replacing your vacuum filter every 2-3 months. If you have anyfilterbuy.com questions or would need support please call us at 949-341-0066 or email us at info@HurtOnDirt.com. If you would like to order filters reach out to our friends at www.filterbuy.com - they have a wide array of filters to choose from.
We’ve all been there with the inevitable Rosé spills that turns into pink. We watch it happen in slow motion as it unfolds in front of us with our eyes bulging in horror. Noo! Chill fam, it's pretty easy to remove. Follow these 5 key tips.
(GREAT FOR CARPETS AND RUGS) Blot, Blot, Blot, and Blot some more with a paper towel, and then cover the entire stain with salt until you can’t see the red wine stain anymore. Let the salt soak into the wet stain and then dry. As the salt dries, it absorb vacuum up the stain. Then, simply vacuum everything up.
DISH SOAP AND HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
(GREAT FOR CLOTHES) Mix together equal parts Dawn dishwashing detergent and hydrogen peroxide. Pour the mixture over the wine stain and allow it to soak in. You should see the stain begin to fade almost immediately. After you have allowed the mixture to soak into the stain, launder the clothing normally. This trick works best on light colored clothes, as hydrogen peroxide has a tendency to bleach.
(GREAT FOR THE TABLECLOTH) Boil water in a tea kettle. While you’re boiling the water, find a large glass bowl and place it in the sink. Then stretch the portion of the fabric that has the stain on it over bowl and secure it with a rubber band. The fabric should be taut. When the water boils, pour it from a height over a foot above the stain directly on to the fabric. The stain should wash out.
WHITE VINEGAR AND LAUNDRY DETERGENT
(YOUR FAVORITE BLOUSE OR WHITE JEANS) Cover the stain in white vinegar, which neutralizes purple and red pigments. Immediately after applying the vinegar, rub in liquid detergent, then launder in hot water. The stain should lift.
(FOR THAT WHITE SHIRT YOU SPILLED WINE ON AT A WEDDING) While we don’t recommended using bleach for all wine stain occurrences, it is your best bet for getting wine out of white fabrics. Simply soak the fabric in bleach for about ten minutes and then launder in hot water. The stain will disappear.
Even after all methods are applied, you may still find your red wine stains just aren’t going away completely. You may be struggling to figure out how to get the stain out of clothes after washing, for example, as those stains may still exist if you put the clothes in the wash without applying a pre-wash method. If your red wine stained carpet dried for far too long, your stain may sit there even after you apply an entire bottle of an oxi cleaner and hot water.
So just remember, time is of the essence! If you wait too long, that red wine stain may end up being impossible to remove. Therefore, act fast, make sure you have at least two of the solutions mentioned above on hand, and get to work. One last thing.. Remember to stop and smell the Rosé :)
By Rachel B.
Cleaning your coil increases efficiency & decreases energy costs.
The A-coil (or evaporator coil) gets its name from its triangular shape and is a critical component of your HVAC system. It is usually located above the furnace. All the air that circulates through your system passes through the A-coil before it exits the supply vents into the desired rooms, whether your system is heating or cooling. For this reason, it is highly susceptible to buildup of dust, dirt, and contaminants. Keeping the A-coil clean of nasty buildup is one of the most important things you can do for your system. When it is dirty or clogged, air flow is greatly compromised, causing your system to work much harder to achieve the desired temperature.
What are the signs of a clogged A-coil?
Of course the surest sign of a clogged coil is its visual appearance, in cases where it is accessible and not encased. (The one pictured above is a casualty of "filter bypass," with all manner of debris, including dog hair, bypassing the air filter and adhering directly to the coil.) Even the thinnest layer of grime covering its fins will significantly decrease air flow. One of the first indications a homeowner will usually have of a dirty A-coil is diminished air flow from the air vents (though this could also be caused by a damper control issue). An increase in monthly heating/cooling costs often accompanies a dirty A-coil as well, as the system must work harder and use more energy to reach the target temperature.
What causes a clogged A-coil?
The A-coil will naturally dirty over time, since it is consistently exposed to the air being circulated by the blower. There are, however, several key factors that will contribute to its becoming dirtier than usual, or becoming dirty more quickly than usual, and most of these are filter-related. A too-cheap air filter will often allow particles too large to pass through, resulting in more debris becoming clogged between the fins of the coil. An incorrectly sized or ill-fitting filter can allow for filter bypass, when debris is able to sneak around the filter and directly into the components of your furnace, particularly the A-coil. Of course, many a technician has opened up a furnace to find no filter at all, which is obviously extremely detrimental to the furnace components, which must be clean of debris in order to effectively transfer heat and use energy efficiently.
How is an A-coil cleaned?
A-coils are situated on top of the furnace and are often "hidden" behind a panel and may or may not be reasonably accessible. Before cleaning, an access point is created directly above the coil so the technician can look from above to see where he can safely cut to access the side of the coil without puncturing any of the copper lines. Once access is created there, the technician can cut access into the underside of the coil, where the cleaning tools will be inserted. Tools used will vary depending on the job but generally include high-pressured air wands, an air whip (such as the Viper), an industrial-strength vacuum, a three-inch round dust-brush head, and sometimes non-rinsing coil cleaner.
How much does an A-coil cleaning cost?
Coil cleanings vary widely in price, mostly due to issues of accessibility, but how dirty the coil is will affect the price as well. Most companies will bid A-coil cleanings rather than advertise set prices, because the nature of the job will differ greatly from one unit to another.
It's well worth keeping in mind that whatever you spend to get your coil cleaned will easily be recovered in the form of increased energy efficiency, lower heating and cooling costs, and increased lifespan of your unit. Cost can range from $199-$800 per system.
By Rachel Broduer
Raise a hand if you know the difference between window cleaning & window washing? Sounds like a really silly question, but there is indeed a huge difference. Window cleaning is your regular windex & microfiber cloth routine. You know, when the kids have printed their hands & face against the glass kind of deal. You hope that the one-minute-clean will suffice. Unfortunately, the window now looks like the kids also did the clean up, too. Over time, that quick swiping is engraved into the window, collecting dust, & creating a Halloween like atmosphere.
On the other hand, window washing includes an entire process only a trained professional can handle. Sounds intense, but there is actually so much that goes into it! We’re here to break it down into everyday terms so that you know exactly what questions to ask before booking, & most importantly, why you should have those dirty windows washed!
Let’s start with the why. It’s the key ingredient for the whole thing, right? Our biggest why usually stems from post construction jobs. Contractors do a beautiful job assembling a home from start to finish, but what’s not pretty is the mess they leave behind. The piles of dust, for one, sticks into every and any surface it can. We found that the dust loves to hide out in corners such as window sills, the tracts, & on the actual glass. Furthermore, debris from paint, plaster, concrete, tape, & stickers can leave a sour taste in the homeowner’s mouth. As mentioned before, this is no job for windex & a microfiber sham. Window washing will provide the essential clean to your post construction site.
Window washing technicians who are solid in their field have trained & educated themselves on different kinds of glass & how each glass must be cleaned. When it comes to standard windows, a soft water process is best. The technician then uses razor blades to remove any debris from the windows. Before doing so, as a homeowner, be aware that heat-tempered glass is harder to clean, & provides a bigger risk of scratching. It will not be the window washers fault if he is asked to clean this kind of glass & ends up slightly scratching it! But this is just a case of what could go wrong, & is good to know about. When booking, ask what kind of method they use. The more knowledge the technician has, the better value you are getting for your dollar.
Lastly, the booking process. When searching for the best technicians, it’s easy to get side tracked by marketing, prices, & more. The Dirt Busters not only have experience, education, & amazing prices, but they run off of excellent reviews. Our customers experience high-end window washing because they understand the importance of booking the right man, every time. For more information, visit HurtOnDirt.com
Post by Rachel B.
At some point in everyone’s life, we’re going to find ourselves wondering how to clean poop. Maybe you have a pet or two. Maybe your child isn’t catching on to potty training just yet. Maybe you or a family member caught a horrible stomach virus. Whatever the reason, accidents happen.
Before we get into how to clean poop from clothing, furniture, carpeting, and hard surfaces, let’s talk about why it’s important to clean it.
Poop Can Be Dangerous…:
Dog poop can contain a variety of parasites that are dangerous to humans, including hookworm, tapeworm, roundworm (okay, a ton of different kinds of worms), along with giardia and coccidia.
While cat lovers may consider their pets cleaner, feline poop is actually more dangerous. Not only can cat feces contain the same huge variety of worms, but also Toxoplasma gondii, or T. gondii, which has been linked to mental illness. (That’s enough to scare the poop out of just about every cat owner!)
Other people’s poop is incredibly dangerous, too. The bacteria in human poop is easily transferred to one’s hands while cleaning, which inevitably leads to what’s known as oral-fecal contamination. And, of course, there’s the one fecal-borne disease that’s on everyone’s mind right now:
How To Clean Poop On Upholstery and Carpet
• Cleaning gloves
• A plastic bag
• Something to scrape with (a paper plate you can toss works nicely)
• Paper towels
• A laundry detergent containing enzymes (Oxyclean is one)
• Liquid dish soap
• Isopropyl alcohol
1. Get it off: Put your gloves on and grab a plastic bag. Use a paper plate to scoop up as much poop as possible and dump it in the bag. Wipe away the rest with a paper towel and toss it in the bag, too. Get a few paper towels damp with cold water and wipe, not rub, to remove more crud.
2. Wash in place: In a bowl, combine 1 quart cold water and 2 tablespoons of a laundry detergent containing enzymes. (See Step 3, above, for an explanation.) Get a cloth wet and dab at the stain, wringing and rinsing your cloth repeatedly, until the area is clean. Let dry.
3. Disinfect in place: Dab at the spot with isopropyl alcohol to remove any lingering stain and disinfect the area. (This is safe on fabrics as well as microsuede and microfiber furniture. If in doubt, spot test first!)
4. Carpeting only: Once the area is dry, vacuum it well to restore the carpet’s nap. For stubborn stains, call us 949-341-0066 or email us at info@HurtOnDirt.com
How To Clean Poop From Hard Surfaces• Cleaning gloves
• A disposable plastic bag
• Something to scrape with (a paper plate you can toss works nicely)
• Cleaning cloths or paper towels
• Disinfecting spray or wipes
Did you know? Disinfecting wipes are handy, but they don’t really disinfect unless you use them properly! To disinfect using a wipe, the surface must remain visibly wet for FOUR minutes. That’s because these wipes don’t contain bleach, just the name of major bleach manufacturer.
1. Dry wipe first: Put gloves on and, using dry paper towels, wipe up as much poop from the surface as you can. Toss the towels into the plastic bag.
2. Wet wipe second: Get more paper towels wet with HOT water and wipe up the remaining mess. Add them to the plastic bag and throw the whole thing out.
3. Disinfect then let dry: Wet the area liberally with a disinfectant. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes, or according to manufacturer’s directions. (Don’t just assume you know what the label says; it takes a lot longer to disinfect than to clean.) Wipe again with clean water and allow the area to dry. Worst case scenario call the best carpet cleaners in orange county.
And there you have it, the full poop on how to clean poop.
Post By: Rachel B
If you’re like me, you’ve never dealt hands on with cleaning slate. Growing up, I had a brick fireplace, wooden floors, & absolutely zero slate. Now, my kitchen has slate countertops, my fireplace has a slate surrounding, & even some of my flooring is slate. I opted in for slate for its natural look, its high quality, & overall aesthetics. Because of my choices, I had to take the measures of efficient cleaning tacked on with cost to clean the slate. After weighing my options, here’s what I found works best.
Blog Post By Rachel B
Last week I was cleaning my bathtub, which was honestly way overdue. It wasn’t until I got down, face-to-face with the dirt, that I realized how much scum, hair, & other grossness accumulated. How on Earth was I showering in this every day?! From that day forward, I have vowed to clean the bathroom at least once a week.
To no surprise, I began to inspect other areas of the house. This turn of events led me into a full on cleaning mission. I chose five of the dirtiest areas in the house to focus on. Here’s a list of them:
Let’s start at #1- the bathroom. It’s easy to spend day in & out without really looking at what’s going on in the bathroom. We’re only in there for a short period of time (usually…), & it’s always to become less dirty. However, the dirt that we shed from our bodies lingers in the corners of the tub, the sink (Hello, fallen toothpaste), & of course, the toilet. If we do not tend to these areas, so much can go wrong. Scum that builds up over time can seep through the pores of the feet while taking a shower. Talk about wasted effort. Washing our hands in a less than spotless sink can actually have lingering germs attach to our hands. An unscrubbed toilet with residue from bodily waste provides the worst kind of smell, along with dirty air particles that we breathe in. You’re just as thrilled as I am about your next trip to the bathroom, right?
The kitchen is a host for so much dirtiness. There is a heavy foot traffic taking place in this area. Hair & bodily fluids are easily dropped here while cooking. Not to forget, food crumbs that drop behind areas you can’t reach, or in the corners of the fridge, begin to produce mold & odors which you inhale daily. Try eating your eggs knowing that’s forming around you…. Lastly, the sink hosts dirty dishes, & left uncleaned, produce a feeding ground for germs. We’ve all heard the saying, “Make sure you use super clean utensils!”. Well, if your sink isn’t clean, forget it!
The living room is, well, the most lived in (while awake of course). Lying down on the couch to watch your favorite movies/shows allows oils from the body & hair to seep into the couch. Having popcorn? Food particles fall into the crevices of the couch, the underneath of the couch, & into the carpet. You’re not a slob, & this is normal, but just think of all the crumbs that will feed the pesty ants. You may as well open an ant sanctuary.
Turning towards the most personal of spaces- the bedroom. It’s said the we spend one-third of life asleep. During that time, we are most definitely not concerns with dust bunnies under the bed. However, since we are breathing in this air, it’s important to know that the air quality we breathe in while asleep is the absolute best. Often times dusty window sills, ceiling fans, & ransacked closets harbor the means necessary for a dusty night’s sleep. The clothes you haven’t worn since 2005 are accumulating dust, the shoes you kicked off are full of germs, & let’s all not pretend that our midnight snack dishes aren’t taking a dirty toll.
Last but not least, the dining area. In my home, the dining area is a super small section between the kitchen & living room. But that’s not to say that it doesn’t play a role in the dirtiness of the home. It just happens that this is the place that I spend the least amount of time in. When I do spend time here, it’s of course, to dine. There have been many occasions where I overlook a vegetable that fell, or presumed my dog will work as a doggy vacuum. This is once again an ant colonies dream. The crumbs that amount on the table, usually swept off onto the ground, are on a one-way street to insect city.
After taking a break from my panic, I began to analyze how I could counter-attack the dirt. I began to calm down, realizing that I am only human, & that humans are actually really dirty. It’s what we do with the dirt that counts. I calculated out that it would take me a good day to deep clean my house alone. That’s either a full day off of work, or a full day on my one day off a week (Hustlers, you get me, right?). Neither one seems appealing.
That’s why I trust in cleaning professionals like the Dirt Busters. Not only do I have the peace of mind that all my areas of focus will be honed in on, I also trust that they will provide an easy process. From booking, to arrival, to the competitive hourly rate, The Dirt Busters & sister company Maid Cleaning Orange County is my go to (& it’s not because I work for them…. Trust me, I’ve been dealt a wrong hand with cleaners before!). To learn more about living in a cleaner, healthier, all around optimal home, visit HurtOnDirt.com !
Blog post by Rachel B
If you’re looking for an organic wine stain remedy that actually works, the best method to ensure you end up with something that lets you return to that clean carpet is by looking for these things:
While not necessary, some great tips of an accident are to remain calm, set the intention that your organic remedy WILL work, & treat the stain as a memory!
If the stain just won’t lift, keep calm & call your local organic carpet cleaners! The DIrt Busters will put the HURT on your DIRT! Our truck mounted system, run by seasoned professionals, can truly provide exceptional service at the best prices.
For more information on scheduling, visit our website at: HurtOnDirt.com
Blog by Rachel B